Madler
I did the five-day horse trek through the Kyrgyz mountains, from Song-Kol all the way up to the Ala-Kol pass. It isn't a luxury trip. Two of the nights are in yurts with no power, and there's no phone signal up in the mountains. It's also one of the best ways I know to see a country.
The route, day by day
- Day 1: Bishkek to Song-Kol. A 4 to 6 hour drive into the mountains, your first ride, and a night in a yurt at 3,016m.
- Day 2: A full day riding across the Song-Kol plateau, then a long drive to a yurt camp near Issyk-Kul.
- Day 3: The Fairy Tale Canyons in the morning, then a 12km hike into the Altyn-Arashan valley and a guesthouse night.
- Day 4: Three hours on horseback and an 800m climb on foot to the Ala-Kol pass at 3,900m.
- Day 5: A hike out of the valley, Karakol, then a six-hour drive back to Bishkek.
A 4WD carries the luggage between stops, and the operator usually covers the horses, the guide, three meals a day and the beds.
It's cold, even in July
People underestimate this one. Inside a yurt at Song-Kol the temperature drops close to zero at night, even in summer. Once the sun goes down it gets cold fast, so put your layers on straight after dinner. Bring a waterproof jacket, a warm fleece, a thermal top, gloves and a beanie, plus a sleeping bag liner.
Your legs will feel it on day two
Day one is an easy ride to get you started. By day two you'll feel it in your inner thighs and lower back. Standing up in the stirrups for a bit on flat ground takes the pressure off.
Don't ride in jeans. After about two hours they're really uncomfortable. Wear riding pants or tough leggings.
The altitude starts on day one
Song-Kol is at 3,016m, and headaches and feeling flat are normal on the first night. Go slow, drink at least three litres of water a day, eat properly even if you feel a bit sick, and skip alcohol for the first two nights. If you're thinking about Diamox, talk to your doctor before you go.
No signal and no power
There's no phone signal at Song-Kol or anywhere on the mountain part of the trek, and the yurt camps have no electricity. A power bank is the most important thing you'll pack. Download Maps.me and the offline map of Kyrgyzstan before you leave Wi-Fi.
Your bag goes on the horse
Keep your day pack to 15 to 20 litres. A big, heavy bag makes riding a lot harder. Leave whatever you don't need in storage at your guesthouse in Bishkek.
Bring cash, in small notes
There are no ATMs in the mountains. Take out som in Bishkek before you leave, and carry USD 200 to 300 in small bills as backup. Tip your guide USD 5 to 10 a day and your horse handler USD 3 to 5 a day. It's expected, and it's a big part of what they earn.
It isn't all riding
Day three is a 12km hike that takes about four hours, and day four is the 800m climb to Ala-Kol on foot. Neither is technical, but both are long. Trekking poles help.
The weather runs the schedule
Mountain weather changes fast, and the plans change with it. If you need everything to run to the minute, this trek will stress you out. Go in ready to be flexible.
Try the kumis
At Song-Kol your host family will offer you kumis, which is fermented mare's milk. Try it. It's part of nomad life up there, and your hosts will appreciate you giving it a go.
Is it for you?
It suits you if you're fine riding for a few hours a day, sleeping in basic shared spaces and rolling with the weather. You need a reasonable level of fitness for hiking at altitude. If you've never really ridden, ask your operator how much experience they want. The horse handler matches you with a horse, and day one is gentle.
How to book it
Search "Kyrgyzstan horse tour" on Instagram or TikTok and you'll find plenty of operators with Telegram or WhatsApp numbers. Message two or three before you commit. Ask about the exact route, what's included, the group size, how much riding experience you need, and what happens if the weather turns.
A five-day trek costs about USD 150 to 300 all-inclusive. Budget operators go down to USD 100 to 150, but check what they cut. A private trek is more like USD 300 to 500. July and August book out weeks ahead.
Plan a rest day after
You'll be wrecked when you get back to Bishkek. Give yourself a day or two there before you do anything big. If you're adding Osh, fly there the next morning, not the day you get back.
